June eleven-14, 2015, noticed the Salón Internacional de Alta Relojería (SIAR) opening its doorways as soon as once more, this yr in Spain, as a sister occasion to SIAR Mexico Metropolis. SIAR Madrid can be a spin-off occasion (run by a lot of the similar individuals) from the lengthy-standing salon held in México that aBlogtoWatch founder Ariel covered for its 2014 event here. This was the second version and, for what I hear from the exhibiting manufacturers, the result was fairly respectable, which augurs a 3rd version.
The preamble was not very promising, although: after days of scorching warmth, Madrid was hit by a monsoon, a freak downpour which flooded the town. It proved two issues: Swiss watches are water resistant, however provisional outside tents are to not be trusted in heavy rain. Following the deluge, exhibitors (a few of them a minimum of) raced to the scene at 3am to get issues able to fall in – which they did, for probably the most half.
SIAR Madrid 2015 was held in a nineteenth century mansion with a sure opulent decadence, an applicable venue for the 13 luxurious Swiss watch manufacturers in attendance. The primary backyard led to the Audemars Piguet stand, situated in what was initially an indoor pool. The environment was actually agreeable. It was a bit just like the SIHH however much more relaxed, with all of the exhibitors prepared to point out and can help you movie and photograph the items for so long as you need. Two days have been put aside for the press, and the final two days the doorways have been opened to the general public, providing a singular alternative to understand the watches that we might in any other case solely see in press releases. The model representatives truly inspired conversations with professionals, collectors, and aficionados in a relaxed temper.
Along with the exhibiting manufacturers, SIAR hosts press conferences. I personally attended conferences by Cartier’s Carole Forrestier, Bell Ross’ Carlos Rosillo, and Bartomeu Gomila – the Spanish Grasp Horloger who created the Time Author II for Minerva-Montblanc again in 2012.
Some manufacturers had watchmakers on present assembling calibres to provide guests an concept of the almost – and typically downright – microscopic world they cope with. It’s superb how with all of the noise, they will nonetheless focus and handle elements that always are lower than a millimeter lengthy.
One other exercise at SIAR Madrid 2015 was the Grasp Class workshops – organized by IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre – during which attendees have been invited to assemble an actual caliber. I used to be fortunate sufficient to attend the one by Jaeger-LeCoultre and confront the caliber 986 which is contained in the Grande Reverso Duoface. The focus required to handle the tweezers, the screwdrivers, and the attention loupe is so demanding that at occasions you marvel why you’re spending extra time in your arms and knees than on the bench – particularly when one of many tiny elements springs uncontrolled and will get misplaced someplace. However in the long run, with some assist from the grasp watchmaker available, the stability wheel miraculously began to maneuver, and I felt an unlimited sense of accomplishment.
However I assume what everyone needs to know are which watches have been proven on the SIAR Madrid 2015. It isn’t all of them, in fact, as a result of the manufacturers got here with fairly a repertoire, however let’s level out crucial ones.
Aside from round 20 historic items from Audemars Piguet’s museum, the manufacture confirmed its two idea watches. One was the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Idea RD 1, a minute repeater with a surprisingly loud sound. I used to be skeptical when it was first introduced, however I need to admit, I used to be very incorrect. To offer you an concept of the distinctive sonority of this watch, Claudio Cavaliere, AP’s International Model Ambassador, took ten steps away from my place on the bar. When he activated the repeater, the barman had the sensible concept of pouring ice cubes right into a bucket, however I might nonetheless hear it! Excellent.
There was additionally the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher (article here), which is arms down probably the most difficult chronograph on the market. Whereas there’s a detailed rationalization within the linked article, I’ve achieved a video explaining it (in Spanish) to assist understanding the complicated functioning of the chronograph.
Bell Ross displayed round 50 of its fashions, together with its newest chronographs such because the Bell Ross BR 03 ninety four Rafale and the BR 126 Carbon Orange. By the way, I noticed Carlos Rosillo together with his Bell Ross WW 1 Edición Limitada – his cigar-themed watch – smoking a cigar with a band that included his household coat of arms. Not dangerous, huh?
The highly effective maison invaded SIAR Madrid 2015 with its creations, dedicating one entire room to the brand new Clé de Cartier. We have been additionally proven the mighty Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon Skeleton (read more about the Astrotourbillon here), with its ethereal however on the similar time blunt presence.
The maison’s favorite cat was additionally in Spain with the Cartier Rêves de Panthères watch, one of many hits of the yr, in addition to the spectacular Rotonde de Cartier Double Tourbillon Mystérieux, with two tourbillons floating on all sides.
The Scheufele household’s manufacture additionally introduced a great illustration of the various issues they do. It was nice to see the brand new Chopard Mille Miglia Race Edition (hands-on here), a particular version created for the race with a pink dial that makes the facility reserve indicator look – eventually – actually good. Chopard additionally exhibited all its totally different fashions with moon phases, one among them being the Chopard L.U.C one hundred fifty All in One, an actual tour de drive with 14 problems that makes you need to put on the watch the wrong way up. The Chopard L.U.C Regulator – my favourite Chopard watch – was additionally on present.
I used to be actually happy to know that De Bethune was attending the present as a result of I really like the model. Plus, I acquired to satisfy David Zanetta’s son, Alessandro, who occurs to be their Gross sales Director. Very good man certainly. Anyway, aside from the classics, that they had the Quetzacoatl, the De Bethune DB 25 T Zodiac with its lifeless second caliber, a dramatic De Bethune DB 25 RM in pink gold and black dial, and the prize-profitable De Bethune DB 29 Maxichrono Tourbillon (hands-on here).
One other deal with of the salon. Among the best watchmakers on the market, every F.P. Journe piece is an train in exquisiteness. Take, for instance, the F.P. Journe Octa Automated Réserve, during which the dial is a block of stamped gold that’s then sanded down and utilized with a layer of silver – apart from the numerals, which look like utilized when they’re in truth a part of the strong face.
The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance sports activities a double stability wheel that synchronizes by proximity and begins beating in reverse instructions. As a aspect impact, you’ll be able to naturally have double time in the identical dial. Nevertheless, one among everyone’s favorites was the properly-recognized F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu with its infinite array of various blue notes. The right gown watch.
IWC showcased its Portugieser assortment as a part of its seventy fifth anniversary celebrations, and the highest hit Annual Calendar was on present in all its totally different flavors. Additionally proven: the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, a very lovely execution, and this different IWC Perpetual Calendar Double Moonphase, with a very nice blue.
Let’s begin first with the women’ watches, as a result of JLC has guess on watches for ladies which might be actually created for them, and never simply watches for males in a smaller measurement – all with have problems. And that’s paying off. As an example, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater, or the Montre Extraordinaire La Rose which – in contrast to most jewelry watches – has a guide caliber inside.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication (hands-on here) was additionally on show with a flying tourbillon that goes across the Northern Hemisphere signaling sidereal time and the corresponding zodiac signal – plus a minute repeater. And it’s lovely to take a look at. Not far more you possibly can ask for right here.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètres have been all there as nicely. Notably of curiosity was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Distinctive Journey Time – which is the watch I would like if I’m going to be touring all over the world… and in addition if I am not. And naturally, the Reverso household was nicely represented, for example, by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 1931 Seconde Centrale.
This was the primary time MBF has approached Spain, and it did so with its model new MBF HMX (debuted here) which is the anniversary version derived from the nicely-recognized HM5. This model is lighter and cheaper, and has a neat resemblance to the sports activities automobiles – and watches – of the Nineteen Seventies. I particularly just like the element of the 2 oil tanks which truly function oil tanks for the caliber. You possibly can even open the cap.
MBF additionally introduced the already recognized MBF Legacy one hundred and one Frost and the Area Pirate.
Montblanc is creating fairly a buzz within the watch business and did so on the SIAR Madrid 2015 with a really animated sales space and plenty of watches. We might see, as an example, the Montblanc Heritage Chronométrie Dual Time (hands-on here), or the all the time spectacular Montblanc Metamorphosis II.
Panerai introduced all its novelties, one thing actually appreciated by their followers which in Spain are legions. Everyone needed to see the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic with its carbon case (hands-on here).
…Or the brand new Panerai Radiomir 1940 three Days Ceramica and its iconic SLC on the dial. And, personally, I received to attempt once more my favourite Panerai watch proper now, the Panerai Radiomir GMT Purple Gold, with its lovely blue dial.
Piaget showcased its Altiplanos, in fact, together with the Chronograph and the Gold Bracelet. I additionally heard (and recorded) the chiming Piaget Emperador Coussin Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater (hands-on here), which I occur to love very a lot – regardless that studying the time typically can eat an excessive amount of of it.
Additionally on present was the Piaget Gouverneur, which I’ve all the time appreciated as a gown watch due to the way it performs with the oval and spherical shapes on the case and dial.
One other of my nice nice loves. Historic items in addition to true classics just like the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle Tourbillon 14 Days (hands-on here), the Patrimony Traditionelle World Time, and the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date have been all on show, in addition to the brand new Vacheron Constantin Concord line.
And that is all for now, people. In the event you plan to go to Madrid subsequent yr – which you must – don’t miss out on the SIAR. I’ll hold you knowledgeable of the dates and the climate forecast, simply in case.
This text has been translated from Spanish to English by its unique writer Santiago Tejedor for aBlogtoWatch. The original article can be found here on his web site Horas y Minutos.